Thursday, November 7, 2013

Berlin, Day Two | 10.5.13 Saturday

Josh went for a run this morning while I slept in a little longer.  He likes to run in each city that we visit and explore things without dragging me along and he misses working out all the time, so it is a great stress relief for him.  After he got back, we got ready and headed upstairs to eat breakfast.  After that, we packed up the book bag and headed out for the day.  We started at the Altes Museum, which josh learned about in his history class and it was right beside the berlin cathedral that we visited yesterday.  We were just planning to look inside and leave but josh insisted that we buy museum passes to visit the interior dome which would also give us access to the other museums on the island.  The Altes Museum was built between 1823 and 1830 and is one of the most important works of neoclassical architecture in the world.  The museum houses the Collection of Classical Antiquities from the Greeks, Romans and Etruscans.  It is located on Museum Island which includes 4 other museums, that we get to visit with the museum pass, oh joy!  Unfortunately I'm not a big museum person, I hate to say it but history artifacts are not my favorite thing so while josh looks around at everything, I look at things too and then find a bench to wait for him to finish.  He loves museums and finds everything interesting or at least likes taking pictures of things that he says will be "useful" in the future.  The coolest part of this museum was the large rotunda that showcased an array of ancient sculptures and was clearly inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. 
Next museum we visited was Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), inaugurated in 1876, this museum showcases collections of Neoclassical, Romantic, Biedermeier, Impressionist and early Modernist artwork from the 19th century.  Then we visited the Neues Museum, which was constructed between 1843 and 1855.  This building, along with all the other museums, suffered severe damage in WWII leaving it closed to the public for close to 70 years.  Exhibits include ancient Egyptian artifacts, prehistoric and early historic collections, collections of etchings and engravings, plaster casts and it houses the iconic bust of the Egyptian Queen Nefertiti (that you could not take a picture of).  I think the museum interiors were much more interesting than the exhibits, with this museum each room had different details and you could tell that they were carefully preserved, but this museum had the worst way-finding, we never knew where to go!  Next museum, (and thankfully last, josh could tell that I was getting a tired) was the Pergamon Museum.  It was designed and completed between 1910 and 1930 and houses, and best known for, original-sized, reconstructed monumental buildings such as the Pergamon Altar and the Market Gate of Miletus, all consisting of parts transported from Turkey.  After we were finished walking around, I was ready to leave Museum Island, I had enough museums to last me for a while, and I wanted to see Berlin, I mean that's what we came here for!
We headed in the direction of the Brandenburg Gate and unfortunately to our findings, there was a protest in front of the gate and a large concert structure on the back side with tour buses and other things that made it impossible to take a decent picture of the gate, kinda depressing.  So we walked through the gate to find that there was a street festival with lots of food vendors and several different performers on the stage. We walked away from the festival and headed towards The Victory Column but before reaching it, we sat at a bench and ate a small snack that we took from breakfast this morning to get our energy level back up.  Finally we arrived at the monument, which is located in the middle of a busy street, you have to run across the street, avoid the cars and hope you don't get hit...just kidding, there is a underground tunnel that leads you to the center!  The Victory Column was designed by Heinrich Strack after 1864 to commemorate the Prussian victory in the Danish-Prussian War, by the time it was inaugurated on September 2nd 1873, Prussia had also defeated Austria in the Austro-Prussian War (1866) and France in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71), giving the statue a new purpose (thanks Wikipedia for the history help).  Different from the original plans, these later victories in the so-called unification wars inspired the addition of the bronze sculpture of Victoria.  Sometimes I wonder why I pay to torture myself but we decided that it would be cool to go to the top so we climbed all 285 spiral stairs and finally got to the top.  After walking a lot already for the day, those stairs were painfully hard to climb but the views were great.  You could mostly see the park which surrounded the area with a few buildings in the background.  Although it was quite claustrophobic because there was so many people up there, we enjoyed the view for a while before heading back down the dreaded stairs.  
Before it got dark, we wanted to check out the Holocaust Memorial located near the Brandenburg Gate.  This time walked back through the festival, saw a Soviet War Memorial, that was closed because of the festival, which was stupid.  While walking, josh wanted to try a German beer so he found a vendor and was able to get a beer and also get a souvenir glass.  Then we headed to the memorial which was right around the corner.  The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe consists of a 4.7 acre site covered with 2,711 concrete slabs arranged in a grid pattern on a sloping field.  The slabs have a consistent width and length but the heights vary.  It was a very overwhelming experience, especially when walking through the memorial and all you see are rows and rows of concrete slabs, some as tall as 15 feet.  It was also neat to watch the public and how they react to the memorial, some were seating on the slabs, children were jumping around on them and then some people just walked the rows and embraced the loss of life that was portrayed through the slabs that closely related to a cemetery, so sad.  
Trying to fit in as much as possible, we headed towards the Checkpoint Charlie even though it was getting dark and along the way, we came across the Topography of Terror site and museum.  Although we couldn't see much and it was beginning to drizzle, we could tell that this was an important site and made plans to visit tomorrow.  We arrived at Checkpoint Charlie or Checkpoint C which was the name given by the western allies to the best known Berlin Wall cross point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War.  Although the original checkpoint booth was removed in 1990, a copy of the guard house has been built in its place and is one of Berlin's top tourist attractions with actors that pose for pictures (for a fee) as allied military policemen.  
It was time to head in the direction of the hostel and find something to eat for dinner.  Finally after much walking, we found a restaurant and ate dinner.  The one thing I hate about Europe is that the beer is cheaper than soda and about 3 times the size, its ridiculous!!  After dinner, we walked back to the hostel and passed out!!  We did a lot of walking today and a lot of sightseeing!  Hopefully tomorrow we can explore more about the Berlin Wall and the history behind it before heading back home.  

Altes Museum, first museum that we visited

Inside the rotunda of the Altes Museum

The Old National Gallery, second museum that we visited...they were restoring a large horse statue, kinda hard to capture any good pictures of the exterior

That's the famous Egyptian Queen Nefertiti shown at the Neues Museum, well at least a poster of the sculpture

Interior of the Neues Museum, if only the walls could talk...

Typical Lauren during the museum visits, patiently waiting for Josh...

The Pergamon Altar relocated from Turkey which gives the last museum we visited its name, Pergamon Museum

Market Gate of Miletus ruins, look how small Josh looks compared to the column!
Brandenburg Gate...wish all that stuff wasn't in front so we could get a better picture

Some history behind the gate...thought it would be easier to post the picture than to rewrite everything



Approaching the Berlin Victory Monument

After we crossed the road, underground of course!

Looking up at Victoria

Looking towards East Berlin, our hostel is very close to that TV tower in the background

Soviet War Memorial

Josh drinking a beer!

Walking back towards the Brandenburg Gate

Holocaust Memorial

Walking through the memorial

Makes you think how many people lost their lives during the Holocaust, so sad

A section of the Berlin Wall still existing at Topography of Terror site

Checkpoint Charlie


Josh's dinner, some sort of beef with red cabbage and potatoes...I played it safe with lasagna









Berlin, Day One | 10.4.13 Friday

This weekend we decided to travel to Berlin, Germany and explore the city.  Our train left early this morning, around 6:30 am and would arrive in Berlin around 11:30 am.  It was the most convenient way to travel and was very inexpensive for the two of us, also we were able to see the countryside of Prague and Germany.  Well at least josh was able to see Prague's countryside, I spent that time catching up on my sleep!  We had a cabin of 6 seats (3 on each side) all to ourselves, which was nice, until we stopped in Dresden and then this older man came and sat in our cabin.  The train ride was very smooth and relaxing, much better than traveling my plane!  Josh went and got us each a muffin and drink and we were able to eat breakfast before getting off the train and figuring out where to go from there!  Finally we arrived in Berlin, got off the train and decided to head towards our hostel to drop off our luggage.  Having no idea what to do as far as transportation, I thought it was the best decision to walk to the hostel, yes I will take full responsibly for this stupid plan, because it was a 2 mile walk!  We should have taken the bus or metro like josh wanted, instead we walked but on the positive note, we were able to sightsee along the way!  With Josh's phone navigating, we finally arrived at the hostel named Pangea People.  We dropped off our bags, asked a few questions about different sites and then headed out to explore.  Berlin is full of so much history and I kinda wish that I had my dad here to explain things to us since neither one of us are big history buffs, especially me!!  Our hostel is located fairly close to the city center which is nice so we are able to walk to most sites instead of using public transportation.  We didn't really have a plan, imagine that, so we decided to head in the direction of the Brandenburg Gate and see what we found along the way.  First we stopped at St. Mary's Church, known in German as the Marienkirche, and is one of the oldest churches in Berlin.  It was originally a Roman Catholic church, but has been a Lutheran Protestant church since the Protestant Reformation. The exact age of the original church is not known but it is believed to be built in the early 13th century.  The building was badly damaged during WWII and was later restored in the late 19th century and in the post war period.  The architecture of the building is now largely composed of modern restoration work  including the medieval frescos, The Dance Of Death, which can be seemed behind plexiglass in the narthex.  While we were visiting, the organ player of the church was playing music and it sounded so beautiful!  We walked over to a large fountain, took some pictures and continued along the street.  We then stopped at another church, one of the most magnificent exteriors we have ever seen and decided that it was worth to pay to see the interior, thank goodness for student discounts!  The Berlin Cathedral dates backs to 1451 and has a lot of history behind this structure (too much to explain without boring you). It went through a lot of leaders, changes and design styles before being completed in 1905.  Then the unimaginable happened... in 1940 it was affected by blast waves of bombings which cost the cathedral its altar windows. Then in 1944, the impact of a liquid incendiary bomb struck the foot of the dome lantern. Because access to this location was so difficult, the fire could not be extinguished, and the entire dome construction was destroyed. Parts of the burning dome crashed into the church and through the floor, causing the fire to spread all the way into the crypt below.  Within one night, the Cathedral had been transformed into a ruin.  Reconstruction began in 1975 and in 1993, the church finally reopened.  The interiors were beautiful, and rich and the detail is unreal.  We just sat in a pew and stared around the church in amazement.  Also we were able to climb 270 stairs and go outside and walk around the dome, it was a great view and totally unexpected.  Lastly, we visited the crypt with lots and lots of tombs, kinda creepy, but each one was designed differently depending on the importance of the individual, some of the small children's tombs had more details than some adults.  It was definitely a site to see and I can't believe all the history behind it.
We decided that we should walk back in the direction of the hostel so that we could check in and get our bags because the luggage storage wasn't the safest place to keep our belongings, it was a locked room, but anyone could walk out with your stuff.  We stopped to eat some Chinese food, I know real traditional German food (ha), and headed towards the hostel.  Since we are staying at Pangea People, each room had a matching name to their continent and of course ours was the Maldives in the Caribbean, go figure!  It was a nice room, we had plenty of space considering it was a 4 person room and we were the only 2 staying in it.  We spent some time figuring out the different sites to see based on the map and josh decided that we should visit the Berlin Wall East Side Gallery before it got dark outside.  He told me it wasn't too far, I should stop believing him when he says things like that, but we walked for a while, it was getting cold and I was getting grumpy.  Finally we reached our destination, a 1.3 kilometer section of the Berlin Wall with approximately 106 paintings by artists from all over the world and it is the largest open air gallery in the world.  "The East Side Gallery is a special place, where art has become the expression for a unique point in time of the history of a separated Germany.  It is a meeting point that talks about an old Berlin and a new Berlin, a separated and a unified Germany.  After the Wall came down in 1989, hundreds of artists from all over the world gathered and transformed the east side of the Wall that had been untouchable up to now, with their paintings, giving the Wall a new face in a new time (www.eastsidegallery.com)."  It was interesting to see all of the different styles of artwork and try to interpret the meaning behind each painting.  As we walked along the wall, we saw one of the best known graffiti paintings, My God Help Me To Survive This Deadly Love.  Created in 1990, the painting depicts Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker in a fraternal embrace, reproducing a photograph that captured the moment in 1979 during the 30th anniversary celebration of the foundation of the German Democratic Republic.  Although it was vandalized with other graffiti artwork, it was still cool to experience it and the area as a whole.  We continued walking along the sidewalk, even though the wall ended and watched a light show on a bridge.  Beginning Sunday, the Berlin Festival of Lights would begin and is one of the largest illumination festivals in the world. Each year it transforms Berlin’s world famous landmarks through light, projections and events. I guess they were practicing or getting people excited about the upcoming event.  I hate that we are going to miss it, it sounds fun to experience. 
Thankfully the metro station was nearby, so we hopped on and headed back to the hostel.  Both hungry and tired, I didn't want to go out to get something to eat so josh went on the mission to find something.  Thirty minutes later, he decided that it was best to eat at the restaurant/bar upstairs in the hostel, so we both ordered pizza and not long after that, went to bed!  Can't wait to see what sites we will see tomorrow!

Just so you know or are interested, everything that we visited today was considered East Berlin.
Traveling along the Vltava River in the Czech Republic

Beautiful scenery 

Berlin Train Station

Would have never of seen this interesting building if it wasn't for our walk to the hostel!

Hostel exterior

St Mary's Church...you can see the different layers of the exterior

Interior of the church

Looking up at the beautiful organ
We were invited upstairs to listen to the organ being played


Berlin Cathedral at a distance

Cathedral interior

Looking in the dome at all of the amazing details

Altar

Walking around the dome of the Cathedral

Such a beautiful church and the weather was perfect today

Our hostel room

The Berlin Wall at the East Side Gallery, looking at the west side of the wall

The East Side Gallery

One of the most famous paintings,  My God Help Me to Survive this Deadly Love...too bad it got vandalized

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Experiencing Prague through the Years | 10.1.13 Wednesday

On Wednesdays, Josh has seminar class in the morning which is a little different than studio in the way that it helps relate Prague's history, culture and architectural background into what the students are working on in their studio class.  This week, his studio and the other studio that joined us in Copenhagen had a field trip to visit different areas of Prague to show how housing has changed throughout the years.  I was invited to come along and the first location was near our apartment so we met the group there and then we would ride the bus with the group to the other locations.  We visited areas and homes beginning in the early 1920's then traveled to an area built in the early 1930's.  After that we traveled on the bus for 20 minutes, skipped a few decades and arrived at a housing community that was built in the 1970's when high rises became the way of housing.  After we walked around (not much to see except large ugly buildings) we headed to our last stop which began construction within the last five years.  It was a modern community that was built on farmland, because it was the cheapest, 10 minutes away from the city center with nothing surrounding the area.  It seemed very out of place and uninviting and the tall chain linked fences surrounding each home didn't quite go with the modern look I think that they were trying to achieve. 
Lastly we rode the bus to the metro station nearby that was recently built and stuck out like a sore thumb within the area.  Střížkov is this large white modernized structure among all of these older high rises and buildings and cost millions of dollars to build and maintain.  Although it looks nice, it's very out of place and doesn't make any sense.  Both of the professors were very negative about this structure and emphasized the importance of designing around the environment.
From the metro station, we headed back to the apartment since josh had school work to do.  But overall it is was very interesting to see the changes throughout the years and kinda  seemed depressing as far as what Prague's society "wants" as a home these days.

Starting with large villas built in the early 1920's

Josh loves the homes that have greenery growing along the walls

Spacious roads and each villa has its own style

Next stop were homes built in the early 1930's.  Can you see the change of style?

Built by a famous architect, just can't remember the name at the moment

Then we stopped at high-rise city!  Built in the 70's, you could tell that alot of families lived in this area

One of the newer high-rises in the area, still not that appealing to the eye

Last stop was in the middle of nowhere, this was the view from the end of the street

Very modern homes with very attractive chain linked fences to keep the neighbors out

Built within the last 5 years, very different from the first stop!

The newly constructed metro station...yes it looks very cool but placed in the wrong area, too modern for this area in Prague 
This ugly complex is parallel to the metro, the grassy area is between the two structures

Heading inside the metro to head back to the apartment